Bigoli are thick, rough-textured strands of pasta from the Veneto, made like very fat spaghetti. They are traditionally pressed through a hand-cranked press called a bigolaro, which gives the surface a coarse, porous texture that holds on to oily and meaty sauces. The classic dishes are bigoli in salsa (onions and anchovies) and bigoli con l’anatra (duck ragù). Wikipedia and The Pasta Project give good overviews.

What Bigoli Are

A strand of bigoli is roughly 3 to 4 mm across, around double the thickness of standard spaghetti, with a rough finish. Recipes vary: traditional versions can be made with soft wheat, whole wheat or buckwheat flour, and some households add eggs (often duck eggs in the countryside), while many modern dried products use semolina. Read the label if you need a specific ingredient. A darker version made with whole-grain flour is sometimes called bigoli mori.

History

The shape is closely tied to Padua, Vicenza and Venice. A frequently repeated story credits a Paduan, Bartolomeo Veronese, with patenting the bigolaro in the early 1600s, but I could not verify that detail in a primary source, so treat the exact date as a tradition. The press allowed families to turn cheap flour into thick, filling pasta. See our regional pasta guide for the Veneto in context.

Bigoli Compared With Other Long Pasta

PastaRegionTextureTypical sauce
BigoliVenetoThick, rough, chewyAnchovy and onion, duck ragù
SpaghettiAcross Italy, strongly southernSmooth, thinnerTomato or oil-based
PiciTuscanyHand-rolled, dense, chewyGarlic and oil, wild boar ragù
BucatiniLazioHollow, smoothAmatriciana

Recipe: Bigoli in Salsa (Serves 4)

This is the most famous Venetian preparation, traditionally eaten on meatless days such as Christmas Eve and Good Friday.

  1. Sweat the onions in the olive oil over low to medium heat for 25 to 30 minutes, until golden and sweet. Stir often so they do not brown.
  2. Add the anchovies and stir until they dissolve. Add the wine or a little water to loosen.
  3. Cook the bigoli in salted water until al dente, saving a cup of the water.
  4. Drain, add the pasta to the pan and toss over gentle heat for a minute, adding pasta water until the sauce is creamy and clings.
  5. Finish with parsley and breadcrumbs if you like.

Recipe: Bigoli with Duck Ragù

  1. Soften diced onion, carrot and celery in oil until sweet.
  2. Brown pieces of duck (leg meat works well), add red wine and let it reduce.
  3. Add stock and a little tomato if you like, and simmer gently for 1.5 to 2 hours, until the meat is tender and falls apart. Cook poultry to at least 74 °C.
  4. Shred the meat, return it to the sauce, toss in the cooked pasta and finish with a little grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano.

A Quick Mushroom Version

Brown garlic, shallot and mushrooms in butter and oil, add a splash of white wine, lemon zest and parsley, and toss with the pasta and a little cooking water. It suits the chewy texture and takes about 20 minutes.

How to Cook Bigoli

Buying and Storing

Look for bronze-cut, ideally whole-grain, dried bigoli at Italian delis or online. Rough pasta holds sauce better; see bronze-cut versus Teflon pasta. Fresh bigoli keep for 1 to 2 days in the fridge or freeze for up to 3 months. Dried keeps for a year or more in an airtight container in a cool, dry place.

Substitutes

Thick whole-wheat spaghetti, pici or bucatini will do. They lack the roughness, so add a splash more cooking water to help the sauce cling.

Nutrition

Whole-grain or buckwheat versions have more fibre and minerals than refined pasta. Nutrition varies by flour and brand, so use the label. Wheat-based bigoli contain gluten.

FAQs

How do you pronounce bigoli?

Roughly “BEE-go-lee”, with the stress on the first syllable.

Is bigoli the same as spaghetti?

No. It is thicker, rougher and chewier.

Is it made with eggs?

Not always. Some traditional recipes use only flour and water, others add eggs. Check the label.

Is bigoli in salsa served hot?

Usually warm, straight from the pan. Some people also eat it at room temperature, but there is no strict rule.

Where is it from?

The Veneto, especially around Padua, Vicenza and Venice.

Can I make it at home without a bigolaro?

A pasta extruder with a thick die works, or you can roll thick strands by hand, as for pici. A domestic machine may struggle with stiff dough, so use a recipe made for it.

More Pasta Guides

See the pasta shapes guide, the pasta pairing guide and common cooking mistakes.

Related guides: for other shapes that suit bold sauces, read best pasta for chunky sauces. You can also find swaps in the pasta substitution chart or browse the pasta shapes A to Z.